A laid-back 36 Hours in Auckland
A blend of relaxation and outdoor adventures characterizes Auckland, New Zealand. Yet, the city's enchanting allure lies beneath its evolving art culture, emerging trendsetters of the fashion world and a new wave of culinary experts who are incorporating indigenous Kiwi ingredients in their dishes.
Auckland, New Zealand's most populous city, is presently witnessing a rapid expansion intensifying its cityscape as illustrated by the numerous construction cranes dotting its skyline. Around a third of the country's total 4.5 million residents call this city home, enjoying its natural blessings and confronting its traffic woes.
The city's uniqueness is heightened by its quintessential geological feature - it rests atop more than 50 volcanic cones – located on a narrow tract of North Island, flanked by two grand harbors. Adding to Auckland's interesting topography is the rapidly transforming Wynyard Quarter on the west coast offering entertainment and dining experiences.
This region, once known for industrial activities, now hosts a modern theatre, a park that comes alive with movies projected on the walls of an erstwhile cement silo during the southern hemisphere's summer months, and a slew of fine dining establishments.
Auckland embodies a relaxed, outdoor-loving spirit synonymous with New Zealand's ethos but always surprises with its sophisticated urban offerings. From its burgeoning arts milieu to its flourishing fashion industry and innovative chefs who creatively incorporate local ingredients into their culinary masterpieces, Auckland promises new explorations and experiences around every corner.
Friday
1) 3 p.m. IMMERSE IN CONTEMPORARY ART
Immerse yourself in the narratives of New Zealand's current societal discussions through the cherished Auckland Art Gallery, a locale with no entry fee for locals, while overseas travelers pay approximately $14.50. As you move through the ground-floor exhibits, you’ll become acquainted with the country's dynamic contemporary art scene and the significant impact of the indigenous Maori culture on it. One of the highlights is “Milk and Honey,” an impactful installation by Lonnie Hutchinson that courageously addresses the abuses suffered by indigenous females, depicted through delicate paper panels that resemble lace. As you ascend towards the older section of the edifice, look up to spot the space-potato sculptures by Judy Darragh, a whimsical addition during 2011. Once in the older wing, prepare to be transported back in time with the mesmerizingly accurate portrayals of tattooed Maori people, painted by the revered Charles F. Goldie during the early decades of the 20th century.
2) 5 p.m. - A JOURNEY THROUGH K ROAD
Embark on a fascinating exploration of the alternative culture in Auckland as you stroll down Karangahape Road, affectionately known by locals as K Road. Situated near Auckland's most ancient graveyard, the street is an artsy array of music stores, affordable fashion outlets, and craft emporiums aligned along several blocks, seamlessly blending with numerous bars and dining venues. Here, you're afforded the opportunity to uncover handcrafted treasures in the timeless shopping emporium, St. Kevin's Arcade. This vintage mall is home to different unique shops, including a secondhand bookstore called Green Dolphin, which puts a special emphasis on enriching children's book collection, as well as Rita Sue Clothing, well-renowned for its dress designs inspired by distinct eras of the past.
K Road's authentic charm lies in its diversified assortment of retailers and eateries that cater to diverse tastes while adding to Auckland's vibrant culture. This part of the city provides a prime snapshot of Auckland’s wide-ranging retail scene, which is punctuated by a decisive retro slant.
3) 7:30 p.m. SAVORY ADVENTURE
In the culinary world of Auckland, Ed and Laura Verner emerged as gastronomic mavericks with the inception of Pasture in 2016. The dynamic couple dedicated a year prior to the restaurant's opening in experimenting with unique food and drink concoctions - think elderflowers steeped in vermouth, exquisite butter aged to resemble Camembert, and wild fennel preserved in brine. Known for accommodating no more than 20 patrons at a time, Pasture offers an immersive dining experience, including their house-made sourdough bread served with the famous Camembert-like butter as a precursor to a five to six course meal that varies with the season. Foodies would need to set aside anywhere between 160 to 180 dollars to indulge in this unique gastronomic experience.
In harmony with the New Zealand tradition, Ed Verner masterfully makes smoke-kissed quince and fire-charred leeks the centerpieces of his courses. The focus is largely on enhancing locally grown vegetables, not forgetting meat delicacies like duck. Exemplifying their innovative approach, Pasture's drink pairings can be pleasantly surprising. The meticulously curated selection of alcoholic (85 dollars) and non-alcoholic beverages (75 dollars) might even feature an intentionally oxidized rosé wine. At Pasture, the Verners will take over the decision-making process of your meal without ever compromising on your likes - for instance, if you marvel at the delectable eel broth, you might just be surprised with an extra portion to enjoy at home.
The Auckland Art Gallery serves as a remarkable local touchpoint to explore and understand the prevailing New Zealand sentiments, along with the transformative influence the Maori culture has had on visual arts.
Saturday
4) Embarking on a Dawn Trail Adventure
New Zealand, famed for its awe-inspiring Great Walks, boasts an array of trails offering breathtaking views from diverse terrains like pristine coastlines to towering mountain ranges. Though these trails are geographical gems away from the hustle and bustle of the city, Auckland offers a brilliant counterpart. The recently developed Coast to Coast Walkway traverses across the city, akin to a mini cross-country adventure. This distinctive journey, approximately 10 miles long, weaves from downtown Waitemata Harbor in the north, across the isthmus, all the way south to Manukau Harbor – forming an enchanting urban trail touching a series of parks. Choose a suitable segment to appreciate the undulating volcanic topography, indulging in the locals' admiration for nature. This charming trek further acquaints you with scenic spots such as the expansive Auckland Domain, the lush Mount Eden – standing tall at an elevation of nearly 640 feet as the city's highest peak – and the incredibly challenging One Tree Hill. These unspoiled landscapes call for a undoubtedly revitalizing and memorable morning hike.
5) 10:30 a.m. EXPLORE INDIGENOUS ROOTS
Experience the insightful tale of New Zealand that expands beyond geology and politics, nestled within the confines of Auckland War Memorial Museum. This institution, unluckily shadowed by its name, is a treasure trove housing an extensive collection of indigenous Maori art and crafts. Presently, the museum is undergoing a comprehensive makeover set to span two decades, aiming to modernize the galleries, layout, and accessibility. Despite this, its priceless collection continues to be on display, revealing over 1,000 pieces of precious Maori 'taonga' or treasures. These encompass full-sized structures, a combat canoe, and common items like fish hooks showcasing intricate carvings. Plan to arrive early enough to secure a venue for the 11 a.m. Maori song and dance performance that vividly brings to life the culture embodied within the exhibition's walls (entrance fee is 25 dollars, or 45 dollars inclusive of the performance).
Also, take a fascinating tour of Britomart, a waterfront district nestled between the harbor and Central Business District. This appealing fusion of ancient and modern architectural marvels promises an unforgettable completion of your magical Auckland journey.
6) 1 p.m. EMBARK ON A SAILING ADVENTURE
Auckland is home to an impressive one in four residents who are proud boat owners and also to a massive population of avid sailors. This interest heightened notably after the commendable victory of the Kiwi team in the latest America’s Cup race against the U.S. team. Thanks to offerings like the America’s Cup Sailing experience courtesy of the tour service Explore Group (180 dollars), even novices can now savor the exhilarating rush of an 80-foot boat leaning to the side and the arduous joy of hoisting the sails. This exciting adventure which takes place over two-hour voyages across the Waitemata Harbor allows you to enjoy the thrill of sailing on a genuine 2003 vintage boat used by Team New Zealand before the advent of the advanced multihulled, hydrofoil catamarans used in recent races. This might be an older boat model, but it does not skimp on speed. With the encouragement of the crew, all participants can spend their journey rotating the helm and manipulating the grinders to refine the sails.
7) 3:30 p.m. INDULGE IN HOMETOWN FLAIR
Situated between Auckland's bustling Central Business District and serene waterside, the 16-acre development known as Britomart is a must-visit hub of local merchandise and high-end offerings. This iconic area is an amalgamation of modern and classic structures, housing many premium tenants. Its unique vibe is thanks, in part, to the many New Zealand designers showcasing their crafts. Shops from local creatives such as Karen Walker, who's renowned for redefining urban fashion with signature pieces like ruffle-edged ensembles and slender cropped pants are what you'll find here. Trelise Cooper offers an enticing mix of boho-chic silhouettes with a touch of glam, while Kathryn Wilson steals the spotlight with embellished female footwear. Male fashion enthusiasts are not left out of the fold, with the cutting-edge Zambesi Store introducing progressive fashion for both genders and the culturally vibrant World promising a cornucopia of bold, avant-garde outfits alongside hand-picked boutique beauty brands.
8) 6 p.m. INDULGE AT BRITOMART
Stylish eateries cover the lanes of the bustling Britomart district, posed perfectly for a pause in your busy exploration. With an innovative approach to dining, the new Amano embodies the farm-to-fork philosophy on a grand scale, catering to large gatherings in a one-time warehouse, complete with rustic plaster walls and exposed wooden beams. Their open-concept kitchen bridges the gap between the customer and the culinary team, an entertaining spectacle of chefs crafting fresh pasta or flame-roasting chicken can be seen. They feature an array of dishes utilising locally sourced ingredients from New Zealand, including Kaipara oysters at 4 dollars each, or grilled lamb chops at 34 dollars.
Further down the boulevard, the equally committed Ortolana provides a more curated menu – try their kingfish crudo at 20 dollars, or indulge in exquisite pasta with clams for 29 dollars – without compromising on quality. It also allows for excellent opportunities for people-gazing, whether from their outdoor seating area or from their indoor glasshouse.
A delectable offering of tuna carpaccio accented with avocado, black vinegar, and furikake can be found at the renowned Soul Bar and Bistro. It is worth noting that these innovative dishes only scratch the surface of the culinary richness Auckland's Britomart district has to offer.
9) 7:30 p.m. STAGE OF ENCHANTMENT
Nestled amidst the thriving Wynyard Quarter, a rising jewel on the western waterfront of Auckland, lies the Auckland Theater Company. Access to this beehive of artistic revelation is granted via a footbridge traversing the Viaduct Harbor. Underneath the veil of construction fencing, it conceals an acclaimed troupe that has claimed this district as its headquarters. They reside in the ASB Waterfront Theater, a modern gem that threw open its doors in 2016 to welcome both art connoisseurs and average citizens alike. A theater with 672 places to get lost in captivating performances, it serves as not only a beacon of the city’s vibrant arts scene but also as a platform for lauded local playwrights. Names like Roger Hall and Briar Grace-Smith bring their unique tales to life on this stage, offering a potpourri of comedic, thought-provoking productions, interspersed with beloved musicals and dramatic classics that have proven to be crowd favorite over the centuries. Equipped with a spacious lobby complete with a cosy cafe, it stands as an embodiment of Auckland’s dedication to nurturing and showcasing art in all its expressive forms.
10) An Evening of Decadent Desserts and Delicious Drinks
Embark on a gastronomic exploration starting from the Wynyard Quarter leading up to the Central Business District. This journey, manageable on foot, is an alternating indulgence between luscious desserts and sophisticated nightcaps. Begin your culinary adventure at the North Park Restaurant and Bar, a splendid gem located in Wynyard. This location, boasting a decor reminiscent of an old nautical shack, servesthe utterly delicious dual-toned chocolate brownie, and can be nipped at the alfresco area overlooking the waters (13.90 dollars).
As your journey progresses, venture across the beautiful Viaduct Harbor to the ever-popular Soul Bar and Bistro. Here, the terrace is a prime spot for relishing the sublime ginger crème brûlée (16 dollars) and the oak-aged Negroni (18 dollars). Both these delights have built a flavor-packed reputation amongst locals and tourists alike.
Round-off this unforgettable tippling expedition at The Jefferson. Nestled in the narrow lanes of Fort Lane, this nightclub emanates a mysterious ambiance and is home to a collection of 600 unique whiskies sourced from around the world. This is the kind of experience that has the power to turn an ordinary night into an extraordinary memory.
Did you know? Auckland's bustling fashion scene has evolved significantly over time, with trendsetters like Karen Walker leading the way in refining street styles with ruffle-edge dresses and stovepipe pants.
Sunday
11) 9 a.m. MORNING RITUALS
Immerse yourself in New Zealand's fervent coffee culture, pervasive even at humbly-located petrol stations, with Auckland standing as a beacon of this trend. A worthy caffeine pilgrimage to the trendy suburb of Ponsonby will reward you with frothy flat whites in the company of the local caffeine aficionados at the vibrant, urban Orphans Kitchen. This compact and cozy 40-seat restaurant serves an array of extraordinary fare—a favorite being kimchi carrot on toast layered with spicy peanut butter (8 dollars) and sourdough topped with poached eggs and anchovy (17 dollars). A brief jaunt just a block away lands you at the lively Ponsonby Central, an agricultural market and foodie hotspot where you can acquire the distinctive peanut butter and other local goodies for your trip back home.
12) 11 a.m. - Embracing Island Escape
Though the city of Auckland is far from chaotic, a delightful calmer experience awaits you on Waiheke Island. This tranquil sanctuary showcases an impressive fusion of nature and art over its scenic 35 square miles, dotted with beautiful beaches harboring scalloped edges, hills adorned with vineyards, and inviting art studios open for explorers. Splash out on a peaceful 40-minute ferry ride from downtown Auckland with Fullers that offers frequent passages to this serene haven (round-trip ticket costs 38 dollars, 48 dollars if bundled with the island bus pass). The island's enticing charms include its blooming wineries such as the Batch Winery. Known for sending a bus for ferry passengers, this winery is a treat for wine lovers, offering opportunity to sample their vibrant sparkling wines and silky pinot gris (tasting fee: 15 dollars). To immerse yourself further into the island's local charm, head over to the quaint, boutique-filled town of Oneroa. Reward your senses with sumptuous local bivalves at the Oyster Inn, a charismatic hotel steeped in a sea-inspired theme. Its second-floor restaurant, bestowing a panoramic view of the blue sea, invites visitors to savor their meals on the balcony, making for an unforgettable dining experience.
WHERE TO STAY
A distinguished hot-spot in Auckland's hospitality landscape, the Hotel DeBrett downtown, is famed for its unique aesthetic and vintage charm. Boasting 25 well-curated rooms, the hotel was first established in 1925. Today, the Hotel DeBrett is renowned for its cosy, wooden House Bar that comes alive with patrons each evening. Rooms here are creatively adorned with vibrant patterned rugs, specifically made from New Zealand wool. Room rates start from 350 dollars, complete with breakfast and a welcome drink, at 2 High Street.
However, if you're looking for additional options to stay, you can book hotels in Auckland on tophotels.com.
On the other hand, if you're seeking a more personal touch to your stay, consider booking a bed and breakfast in Auckland on http://www.northislandnz.net/en/type/bed-and-breakfasts-4/. These residences offer a cozy, homelike atmosphere and often provide an intimate experience with local culture and hospitality.
Alternatively, for those who prefer apartment-style accommodations, there's the Columbia Apartments Auckland. These apartments offer a home away from home ambiance, ideal for tourists seeking for a long-term stay location in the city.
Alternatively, Airbnb provides an affordable and practical alternative in Auckland's bustling cityscape, especially amidst the ongoing hotel construction boom attributed to the city's shortage of hotel rooms. A prime example is the Luxury Bohemian City Apartment, tucked away in a historic building along Queen Street - the beating heart of downtown. This one-bedroom abode is charmed with high ceilings, an efficient kitchenette, and an array of flora, offering a homely environment at approximately 136 dollars a night.
